JUST UPDATED 2024: JAPAN COMING SOON: New York City / Austin / Los Angeles / San Diego / San Antonio / Houston / Dallas / Shanghai / Singapore / Branson (Missouri) / Western Montana

Hi, welcome to the Bradley family Travel Blog! The point of the blog is to let our family and friends see what we are doing and if they ever go to these places they can choose what to see and what to avoid. We tend to lean toward the more active side - like "leave no stone unturned" so if you want to go at a more leisurely pace, you can just pick and choose. Choose a destination above, on the map, or in the groups on the right hand side of the page.

Happy travels, Phill, Shellie, Bix, Brooke

Japan 2024 - Day 0 (Prep)


I do a lot of prep before I go on any trip, but for our 13-day trip to Japan in May 2024 I took an especially long time. Certain things really paid off and I've done my best to document those things here.

  • Learning about Japan
  • Budgeting
  • Planning a route
  • Language tips
  • Flights
  • Hotels
  • Pre-booking daily activities
  • Train tickets / JR Pass considerations
  • Wifi and IC Cards
  • Packing / Takkyubin
  • Customary practices

Learning about Japan

For Westerners, Japan is a gateway to Asia - it's the closest country and easily accessible with direct flights from the US, and there's tons to do and see for every interest. But I think it's also a bit more complex to navigate than some other countries I've been to. While there are a lot of English speakers and signs, the sheer number of people and getting around can be intimidating.

This trip started out as a graduation trip for Brooke and I would accompany her, but it turned into a full family vacation with Bix also interested. Shellie was very concerned about going to Asia - it was way outside her comfort zone, but as she started to see what we could do there, she got more and more excited.

One of the key things we did to get ready was to watch short videos on Facebook - 10 things to not do in Japan (see Customary practices below), sample itineraries, food, activities, etc. Through these we could get a flavor for the types of activities we could do. Watching other people getting around made the idea of visiting easier for Shellie to consider and as we neared departure she was looking forward to it.

Budgeting

The US Dollar is currently (2024) very strong in Japan. That doesn't mean it's cheap. Being an island (think, lots of imports) and a strong workforce, prices are high for most Japanese people which makes them average for US travelers. You can expect to find some bargains (Street food, small stores, some attractions). There are still some expensive things (flights, hotels, high end restaurants), but overall I would say it's more affordable than people might think (at least as of 2024).

That said, it would be best to plan out a budget. Considerations for each main area are below in separate sections, but here are the main expense categories to consider:

1) Flights - this is the main fixed expense, meaning you're gonna pay to get over there and back regardless of your choice in how many days you stay, but you may find cheaper fares if you are flexible in dates and airlines or even where you would fly into.

2) Hotels - will you stay at conventional (Western-style) hotels, Ryokans (traditional Japanese inns), Capsule hotels, hostels?  You can browse prices on Booking.com. Also you can go direct to hotels or book from within Japan, but for a first timer using a hotel site is your best bet. A lot of hotels in Japan charge a per-person rate, not a room rate. We spent about $70 per person, per night, but stayed in above-average, large hotels with free breakfasts. Just like any country there are a lot of options for cheaper and higher-end accommodations.

3) Rail/transportation - if you want to see more of the country, then you should consider a JR Pass to take the bullet trains between major cities.  For our itinerary, even though we did 13 days, we only did a $350 per-person 7-day JR Pass and did our intercity travel those days. If you are traveling locally (within a city) pay as you go travel on local trains is very cheap ($5-10/day). We didn't rent a car, so I don't have that data. We took some taxis, but few and far between - they're expensive and can be slow.

4) Food - can be very affordable if you focus on small establishments or street food, which can be very good. Restaurants seemed to be comparable in price to the US. We budgeted about $100 per person per day. I think we did pretty good with that. You can do better if you try.

5) Activities - as you read through the blog you can see we did a lot of things. Check prices on Klook which may not be as familiar to Westerners as Viator, but has great prices and lots of options. We budgeted about $100 per person per day for activities. Some days we were over and some under, but $100 per day was a good rule of thumb.

6) Miscellaneous - souvenirs, alcohol, claw machines or pachinko - normal extras.


Planning a route

I put Budgeting ahead of planning a route because if you can budget time and money, you can make a route that fits.

1 week:  I would recommend to just do Tokyo and the surrounding area and no JR Pass. 

2 weeks: Do a variation of our itinerary - hit the major cities.  

10 days is also a good alternative - you can get in both the Tokyo and Osaka/Kyoto area - just cut out a few activities in our 13-day itinerary

Japan is about the size of California, (a little longer and skinnier), but for first-timers, you're probably going to want to hit Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto, which are in the central part of the country.  Tokyo and the Kansai area (Osaka/Kyoto) are about 300 miles (480 km) apart which is roughly Dallas to San Antonio or a little less than Los Angeles to San Jose. You will probably ignore the far north and south areas this time around.  (If you want to see Cherry Blossoms they last a little longer way north, into May).

Here are some superimposed maps to show you the relative size:

US East Coast

vs California

Europe

We went as far south as Hiroshima which is another 200 miles south of Osaka. The bullet train makes it very quick and easy if you want to venture farther north or south, even for a day.

We flew into and out of Tokyo. Don't get too hung up on the airports (there are two - Narita and Haneda) and this might vary on your flight. You can get to your Tokyo hotel from either one. You can also fly into Osaka (Kansai International).

I'd suggest to spend 50% of your time in Tokyo, 2-3 days in Osaka, and 1-3 days in Kyoto, Nara, or Hiroshima.

We did: 7 days Tokyo and surrounding area (including the fly in and out days), 2 days in Kyoto/Nara, 2 days in Osaka, 2 days south of Osaka (Hiroshima, Fukuyama, Manabe Island).


Language Tips

I learned a lot of Japanese before I went. I've been studying on and off for over 10 years and really went to work on it starting about nine months before the trip.  You don't have to do this.

But... here are the best things you can do to prepare for the language barrier and prepare in order of what I think is most helpful and what you can devote time to learning.

Level One - I hate learning foreign languages and I cannot speak any

  • Download Google Translate - you can use your camera to point at things - signs, vending machines, menus, train tickets, and it will translate into English in real-time. If that sounds futuristic it isn't. It's a real thing.  I speak almost no Chinese and this helps tremendously when I go to China or Taiwan.
  • "Toy-Day?" (this is very rough approximation of how to say Toilet)  This isn't the proper way to ask, but people will understand if you say this one word.
  • "English?"  The Japanese word is Eigo (AY-go), but you don't want to use that. You want someone who can actually understand English.
  • Get the check at a restaurant - make an "X" with your fingers. This is an awesome invention and seems to be universally understood throughout Japan. 
  • "Arigato gozaimasu" (A-REE-ga-toe go-ZAI-mas) - this is a proper/polite way to say Thank You. You will hear this hundreds of times and you should also say it. If you remember the Styx song Mr. Roboto ("Domo Arigato, Mr. Roboto") that can help.  Domo is like adding very.  You can just say Arigato, but adding Gozaimas while seeming extra is totally normal - take the time to add it and please try to learn this one phrase instead of saying Thank You.
  • Not a language per se - but will help as much as one - Good map app - see where you are and what train and platform to take

Level Two - I'm a little adventurous - what else is helpful?

  • Sumimasen - (soo-mee-mah-sen) - this is Excuse Me. Can be used if you bump into someone or want to get by them, or if you want to get attention. Should be in section one above, but I know some people just can't handle too much.
  • Greetings 
    • Good morning - Ohaiyo Gozaimasu - "OHIO" (hold the second O a little longer, but if you don't they will still understand) and add Gozaimasu (go-zai-mas) same as above to make it polite
    • Hi/Good Day - Konnichi wa - (Ko-nichi-wa) (use anytime, but usually late morning through the afternoon) - use Ohaiyo Gozaimasu in the morning and Konbanwa (below) for evening
    • Good evening - Konban Wa (Cone-bahn-wa) - make it sound like all one word
    • Don't say "Hi!" - that sounds like yes (Hai)
  • Number of people in your party - helpful for getting a table, getting in a taxi, etc.  1 person (hitori), 2 people (futari), 3 people, (san-neen), 4 people (this was us, YO-neen) - more here; you can also show fingers or do both!
  • "Doko desu (dess) ka" - literally "where is?"  Say whatever you need or point to your itinerary or ticket or the place you want to go on your phone and say "doko dess ka" after it. This is not correct grammar, but hopefully this will help you get a response in English.
  • "O kudasai" is "Please" - add onto the end
  • Cardo - meaning you want to use your credit card.
Level Three - I gotta a little time - what's next?

  • Learn Katakana - this is the alphabet Japanese uses to spell out non-native words (of which about 80% are English!) 
    • If you can master Katakana (and you can get pretty good in 2-3 weeks) you can read a lot
    • There are tons of online apps (I used Renshuu and others) just search Katakana
    • Katakana is used everywhere (menus, signs, markets)
  • Learn some more set phrases - but don't get too crazy - if they start speaking back to you in Japanese then you might be game over
    • Yoyaku - reservation
    • Numbers - but be careful - counting different things (cars, people, sheets of paper) each use specific suffixes - use hitotsu (1 thing) and futotsu (2 things) to order food or use fingers
    • Counting money
    • No - iie - (sounds like eee-ay)
    • Yes - Hai (Sounds like Hi!)

Flights

A lot of blogs recommend Skyscanner to find cheap flights.  You can also use conventional methods which is what we did.

If you fly into Narita, you can read about what we did when we landed. It's pretty far north of Tokyo and took a little while to reach western Tokyo. (hour train, NEX)

If you fly into Haneda you are closer to the south or west side of Tokyo (Shinjuku or Shibuya are popular spots).  

For Osaka (Kasai International) you will have 40-50 min train ride like Narita since it's outside the city to the south.

Hotels

We booked everything through Booking.com. They seemed to have the largest selection and best prices. However, I have heard that if you book hotels while in Japan, they can be cheaper! We didn't want to risk this. Also, I could cancel up to a couple of days before arrival so if I made a mistake, I could rebook or change my itinerary as many times as I needed.

There are three (plus one) basic types of hotels:

  • Normal - western style - no explanation needed although these do have some interesting options like four beds in the same room which is what we used
  • Ryokan - leave your shoes at the door and sleep on tatami mats, enjoy a meal with hosts - I would consider this a "bed and breakfast and dinner" situation. Very Japanese. 
  • Capsule - hotel room/pod just large enough for a bed.  Central, though private, showers
  • Love hotel - These sometimes look cheap but think of these as a not normal option - they are mostly for boom-chicka-wah-wah and can have an HOURLY rate. Usually it WILL say on a site like Booking.com, so just be aware.

Onsens (Hot spring baths) at accommodations

  • Many hotels and Ryokans offer Onsens which are hot spring baths.
  • Keep in mind, if these are public, they are usually experienced Naked and men and women are segregated
  • Often tattoos have to be covered with tape or are not allowed
  • Western-style hotel pools seem to be few and far between

Where to stay

  • Most things are just a train ride away.  but it's nice to be near a station if you have luggage or even if you don't (see Takkyubin services under Packing).
  • We stayed in the city (Shinjuku, Tokyo, Osaka Bay Tower) and outside of it (Otsu, near Kyoto, and Fukuyama). 
  • Find a hotel that fits your style and budget and locate the nearest train station. There are SO MANY train stations, that you will probably be in walking distance to one or an affordable cab ride.
Where we stayed
  • In Tokyo we stayed at the WPU near Shinjuku station - the largest train station in the world - which made it easy to day trip to Mt. Fuji (Hakone) and get connections all over the city. For our Disney day we stayed near Disney.
  • In Osaka we stayed at the Art Hotel in the Osaka Bay Tower at the Bentencho station - but I think Osaka is exceptionally easy to navigate from just about anywhere.
  • In Kyoto we stayed at the Prince Hotel in Otsu at Lake Biwa - three stops from Kyoto station - super easy, yet nice to be out of the city.
  • In Fukuyama we stayed at the Daiwa Roynet right next to the station


Pre-booking daily activities

There are 37 million people in Tokyo and lots of visitors. There's a lot to do but stuff still gets booked up.  

You need to plan your activities and figure out when you can book. If you wait for a weather report you risk missing your preferred slot or even going at all.

The best sites for booking are Klook and Viator. I also used Tours by Locals to book a tour guide. Klook is great because it offers options like different times and days for events.  Klook also seems to work well with US credit cards which was a problem for me when booking directly with some sites.

  • Try to book as much indoor stuff as you can early.
  • You can wait for the weather report before booking Hakone Free Pass.
  • Go Karts - night slots go fast.
  • Towers like Skytree or Shibuya Sky will go fast for early evening (see both day and night) - if you wait for visibility reports you might not get to go at all
  • Book Disney or Universal Studios early and bring ponchos just in case
  • Book sumo tournament the day it opens up and still you might have to go through Klook to get a spot
  • Book baseball a couple months in advance through JapanBall.com

Train Tickets


JR Passes

Should you get a JR Pass?  My answer would be that if you are traveling on a bullet train more than three times in a seven-day period then you should.  We did all of our bullet train rides in the middle of our stay so we only got a 7-day pass for those days. The rest of the time we used our IC Cards and paid for local trains as we went.

Redeeming your pass. When you buy a JR Pass they will send you vouchers to your US (or other country) home address. You need to physically bring these vouchers to the counter in Japan with your passports. They are only for non-Japanese visitors, so you have to prove non-citizenship, and that you're traveling. There are counters in the major train stations.  

You can redeem them in advance of your first day and set the date for them to start working.

Reservations on Bullet Trains.  We did a reservation on our first train and then after that we just took the non-reserved cars (cars 1-3 on 8-car trains or cars 1-5 on 16-car trains).  It was easier and more flexible, since we didn't know how our connecting trains would work out. We ALWAYS got a seat, but during April (peak season) that might not be the case. 

With a JR pass it is free to make a reservation but a pain - I couldn't get an online app to work or recognize me and that I had four passes (could be operator error). You can make them yourself at a kiosk at the station or go to a counter (sometimes a long wait).


Special trains

There are some trains that require a Basic Fare ticket AND a Special Limited ticket. If you plead ignorance they will often let you buy these on board.  EXPRESS trains are a tip off that there might be an extra ticket required.  The NEX (from Narita to Tokyo stations) requires this ticket.

The Hakone free pass (available on Klook) allows you to take the train to Hakone and all transportation in Hakone for one price (about $40US).  You can catch it from Shinjuku station - visit the Odakyu Sightseeing Center (enter the station just north of Happy Lemon).

Normal trains and buses

Get an IC Card - see below. Use this to pay the fare at any train station or bus.  Tap to enter the turnstile, and tap to get out.



Wifi, IC Cards, Adapters

Wi-fi

Before you get to the airport - go online and reserve one or more portable wifi devices. More affordable than your calling plan and easier than swapping out SIM cards.

You rent a small wifi receiver that you carry with you are day - you can use it to text, keep up on social media, check directions, and even do wifi calling.  Charge it up each night.  We got two - one for the kids and one for Shellie and me, so if we got separated we'd each have one.  

The "unlimited data plan" data rate slows down a lot, so don't expect to stream movies, etc. 

We used Ninja Wifi which is basically the same as Global. You reserve in advance and then pick up after you go through security at the airport. You can return before you go through security on your way back home.

IC Cards

Visitors to Japan can get a rechargeable "IC Card" that can be used to pay for goods and services all over Japan. It works like a debit card but you don't get your money back. Use it up at the airport on your way home.

We used Pasmo, but you can also get the Suica Welcome card. The Pasmo is available from the Keisei service desk near the NEX train or Skyliner in Narita airport.

You can charge these cards at 7-Elevens or Family Marts or kiosks in the train station. Just put your card in the machine (or set it on a pad), then select how much you want to add, insert money, and the amount will be put on the card.  We kept about 3,000 yen on our cards and recharged if we got below 500 yen (one way train tickets are 150-300 yen).

To use it just tell the vendor "IC card" and show them the card. Then tap to pay.
At the train station go through the IC line and tap to get in and tap to get out.
  

Adapters

Japan uses a plug just like the US two prong. You don't need an adapter for most devices, but if you have a three-prong (like some laptop plugs) you can buy one on Amazon for $10 to convert 3-prong to 2-prong.



Packing


We each took a big suitcase and a backpack or duffle bag for the plane or overnight (see below why).

The general strategy was to utilize the ingenious Takkyubin service that is nationwide in Japan. It's basically FedEx for your luggage. For a small fee ($15 per suitcase) they will pick up from one hotel and take it to the next hotel.

The drawback is that if your hotels are in different cities, this is not same-day.

I will explain by example:

1) We took all our own luggage from the Airport on the NEX train to Shinjuku station and wheeled it to our first hotel
2) The day before we checked out of our first hotel (Sunday) we shipped most of our luggage to the next hotel; we kept back toiletries and the stuff we would be wearing the next day
3) We checked out the next day (Monday) and traveled to the next city with our toiletries and dirty clothes from the day before - one backpack per person.
4) We got to our hotel (Monday) and all of our bags were there at check-in
5) When we checked out of that hotel (Wednesday) we did things a little differently. On the checkout day (Wednesday) we shipped bags to the next, next hotel (where we were going to check-in on Thursday) and took just toiletries and a day's clothes to the next hotel (Wed night check-in)
6) We checked into the Wed night hotel with our day bags 
7) The next day we checked out and went to our next hotel and our bags were there
8) We repeated this once more to get to our final hotel - shipped out the day we left when we checked out and just took a day of Disney clothes and toiletries to the next hotel. While we were at Disney the next day our bags were delivered to our room.
9) We rode a bus to the Airport with all of our luggage, but theoretically you could ship your luggage to the airport.

I'll try to make a chart for those more visually adept.




Customary Practices


As I stated above it helps to watch some acclimation videos on YouTube or Facebook reels.  But here are some unique things to know before you go.

1) No trash cans - people don't eat and walk because there are no trash cans.  Bring a sack for your own trash and throw it away when you get to your hotel. 7-Elevens may have cans. 

2) Don't talk on your phone on the train - people do not want to listen to your conversation

3) On the train hold your backpack in front of you - trains can be crowded - minimize your space by holding your backpack where you can see it and keep it out of people's way

4) On the escalator - stand to the side - in Tokyo it's on the left and walkers will pass to you the right; In Osaka it is the reverse - just do what other people do and do not block the right of way

5) Do not tip - it's insulting - there are a few exceptions but only if it is explicitly stated - we tipped one time the entire trip - at Go-karts

6) Do not open or shut taxi doors - the driver will open them and shut them automatically or manually - the exception is if you are the front seat passenger

7) Wait in line, wait your turn.  Even when we had 10,000 people trying to get into Disney everyone was cordial and took their turn.  Same at the subway. Same everywhere.

 

Now you're ready to go!  Keep reading to see what we did during our time in Japan.

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